Hi surfgirls! This is the 2nd post related to overcome fears: The fear of the surfboard.
When I started to surf, one of the fears I faced was to be hit by the surfboard.
Did it happen to you?
My fear of the surfboard was so big, and in my mind the only thought was that, so I attracted it. We are what we attract, isn’t it?
I had 2 accidents with 2 different surfboards.
The first one was in 2014, when I moved to Ecuador and decided to learn surfing.
Basically, I fell from the board in a very simple and inofensive way, and when I came back out to the surface the board hit me on my face.
It hit on my right eyelid and it was bleeding a lot. Now the story is hilarious for me, but at that moment I got terrified and stop surfing for years.
I regret all those years because now the surfboard is my best friend.
That’s why is important to be careful and follow the surf security rules, that you can find in this post.
The second time was in 2016. I was doing SUP (stand up paddle), it’s about surfing a bigger and wider board on a standing position and with a paddle. The board is way heavier.
I was happy, paddling and standing on the board with my dog Rocco, taking pictures with 2 friends that were together in another board.
Long story short, at finishing our paddle surf session, we were getting to the shore and there were many people swimming and playing because it was holiday.
There was a tricky shorebreak wave. You can imagine the rest of the story,
The board hit me on my leg, and as a result I got a scar on the thigh.
That accident caused me more fear and trauma regarding 2 things:
Fear of large sized boards, so much, that when I started to surf again in 2017, my board was a short and light board, epoxy one.
Also, regarding the scar I got on my leg. Until the present day it is visible, the hit was so hard that my muscle fibers broke, and I have a small depression on my leg.
But a friend taught me that scars are pretty, and mark a story in our life, remind us thay we used our body.
Look at Bethany Hamilton, the goddess of Surf Mermaids. A life lesson.
In the present, as I told you, the surfboard is my best friend.
I don’t care if it’s a longboard or shortboard, I love them all, and I have fun with all of them, I’m not afraid anymore.
But in life everything is a process, and with security rules to be followed.
After becaming friends again with the surfboard and as I improved my surfing, it was time to paddle out and get to the lineup.
The fear of the ocean I tell you is in the post: Fears part I.
Thank you for joining me in this experience, I hope it motivates you to overcome the fear of the surfboard and encourage you more.
Don’t miss the part III: The fear of the wipe out.
I hug you,