The subject of today is the fear of wipe out / washing machine.
The fear of wipe out is one of the biggest, I think.
It’s about being dragged by a water mass that spins you over and over, with the surfboard together, which causes panic and anxiety.
All of this works against your lung resistance and also considering if you took enough oxygen before falling into the water and how tired of paddling you were before that.
There are many the factors involved.
But apnea and mind control are very necessary.
I had many wipe out episodes when I was learning and I ended up crying after those surf sessions and used to say I was not going to surf anymore.
Fortunately, this feeling disappeared and at the next day or next week I was surfing again.
Wipe outs still happen to me but, like everything, with a lot of practice and very consciously and mind power, I handle it much better.
I don’t panic anymore.
That’s all about.
Fear sometimes is good, it makes us look out, but panic paralyses. We need to remove it from our lives.
I don’t want to keep talking about how bad could be a wipe out, so…
I’m going to tell you what I do, after have learned the lesson.
Whether you are about to ride a wave and you slipped, or the wave dragged you, or the nose of the board dove, or you were just paddling in the impact zone, is important to do the following:
Anticipate your mind to the wipe out.
At that moment, you will see the problem coming, those seconds happen like in slow motion, there is no way you don’t realize what’s coming.
Become very aware and take a lot of oxygen to hold as longer possible, thrust away your board, and cover your head, put yourself in fetal position and go with the flow.
Do not kick.
Don’t fight against the current or the wave.
Do not let out all the air from your mouth at once.
Do not open the eyes.
Count the seconds in calm.
You will see there are not many seconds like it seems.
And when you least expect, the ocean will bring you back to the surface.
It’s not that easy and nice like it sounds, it requires practice
Calm seas don’t make good sailors.
My last heavy wipe out, but successful one, was in Morocco and it seemed to be everlasting, but I was counting the seconds under the water and they were only 6.
If we panic, it always seems worst, it seems eternal.
You have to achieve awareness and be realistic. It is the healthiest. There will come a time when you laugh about your drops and wipe outs, I promise you. Like this one:
I hope this motivates you to surfing the most waves possible, without paralyzed by the fear of wipe out.
Don’t miss the last fear in the next post: fear of sharks!