I remember my first time surfing back in the year 2013, in Montañita, Ecuador.
We went on holidays with my group of 5 argentinian friends from college, and two of us decided to have our first surf lesson.
At that time, I used to ride skate and longboarding, and I dreamed with doing the same, but on a wave.
I was ready and very excited for my surf lesson, they gave me a surfboard that doubled my size. The lesson lasted around 2 hours, we practiced 30 minutes at the sand how to stand up on the board, how to paddle, security rules, etc.
I recommend you to pay attention to the theory, because is normal with the craving and excitement of going to the water and surf your wave, you could get distracted.
On this post I give you some tips and security rules when surfing.
And after half an hour of theoretical lesson…
Jump right into the water!
The surf instructor went with me to the water, helping me with that large board.
I was quite nervous and afraid of carry that huge board or hit myslef with it. I think one of most common fears when learning surfing is to be hit by the board. Have you experienced that?
If you are just learning to surf and you are afraid of hit yourself with the board, I have good news: that fear will go away soon, and the surfboard will become your best friend.
Indeed, in this post I tell you how to overcome the fear to be hit by the board.
I cannot deny that my heart was beating like a drum but I have a pleasent feeling at same time.
I lived in Argentina for about 24 years, far away from the sea, and I only went 5 times on holiday.
Consequently, I was nervous.
Every wave that came, I felt that knocked me, and that the wave energy was strong that day,
Who knows if was like that, now that I do know what is the wave energy.
Finally, I was in position on the surfboard and when the next wave was coming, the instructor told me: paddle! And pushed the board.
I remember to paddle a bit and standing up from the first time.
I was surfing!
Later, I saw myself on pictures, and, what I felt looked totally different.
And that still happens to me, LOL.
In my mind the wave was huge and strong, an I was surfing with such a good stile like a pro, and my wave lasted very long. Because when you catch you first wave, the world stops, and the seconds feel like minutes.
I show you the picture below, and is evident that the wave was tiny, I was surfing some kind of bird style, and if I would have a video, I bet were 5 seconds standing on the board.
My surf lesson totally worth it.
Indeed, I cannot help myself but get excited and laugh, bringing back those memories from 7 years ago.
I wish you this happiness every day of your life.
After that wave, I kept practicing in the ocean around 1 hour and a half. Carrying the board to ‘my’ peak (where the instructor was) and going back to the shore standing on the board.
I fell many times, because I used to put my hands too close to the rail (edge of the board). As a result, I was slipping.
Until the instructor explained me that I had to put the hands in line with my shoulders, like in a push up.
Is a common habit, at first time surfing, to hold the surfoboard’s rail.
Despite the falls, it becomes an addiction and you want another wave and another wave, until you manage to stand, and have that unique feeling, very much like flying in a magic carpet.
Here, very motivated and looking for my next wave:
I can assure you that after 2 hours doing this very intense exercise, I was exhausted, but very satisfied and happy.
And after enjoying the magical sunset of Montañita, we returned to the hostel to shower, and I had no strength in my arms to put shampoo on my hair!
One of the best experiences of my life.
When was the last time you did something for the first time?
If you haven’t had your first time surfing yet, I invite you to do so. I promise you that you will not regret it.
And if you surf already, you know what I mean, and I invite you to surf a new and different spot, one that takes you out from your comfort zone and introduces you to new surfing friends.
Here in Ecuador I look forward to meet you!
See you on the water!