“Being calm and surfing makes you look very pretty. I love you”.
That was the message I read from my mother, who always reminds me that the important thing is not living for work, that life is more than 9 to 5 and the goals we set for ourselves.
Although I inherited the love of the sea from her, it has always been difficult for me to put my work aside, and this had repercussions on my physical and mental health. The issue of my generation is not being able to disconnect.
The body reflects what we ignore of ourselves. After returning from a demanding job, I decided to stay living by the beach for a few months until COVID arrived; the quarantine and a demanding job, and I had projects that felt like a tidal wave for a beginner.
I started the year as someone who walks to the shore after a wipeout: really confused, and wishing to rest, but with a clear goal; dedicate myself to play and rest as my priorities.
Shortly after returning to the water, my body that I have done so much damage listening to silly comments from others, trying to change it, thanked me. I felt stronger, more agile. While my body allows me to surf, surfing gives me the possibility of making peace with my body while I detach myself from the toxic culture of diets to which I was subjected by years and it still hurts me.
I realize that my body is not the main thing that matters in the water… we are all focused on the wave, on the sea. The focus shifts to what’s the best and comfortable wetsuit or bikini, if I can move easily or not… Or if I can paddle faster and if I can ride a bigger wave.
The more time I spend in the water, the more comfortable I feel in a bikini.
Surfing, in addition to helping your body release endorphins, gives a feeling of strength. Adapting to nature, conditions and knowing how to ride a wave is a wonderful feeling.
When I came back to my surf lessons, one of my instructors was happy with my progress and told me “Caro, you have the strength, it’s just a matter of practice.”
The fact that my body allows me to balance on a board that glides through the sea is a wonderful thing, when I think about it after surfing.
The strength that my body gives me is more powerful than any criticism of how certain clothes fit me or if I have gained weight or not, something that unfortunately is a sign of how toxic our society can be. At sea I don’t pay attention to that, it’s secondary.
My mom was right. I feel prettier, calmer and more powerful. Because I thank my body for how wonderful it is to allow me to surf and I thank surfing for showing me how strong I am.