The other day, talking with my friend Carlota, we were thinking about when is the moment you feel you become a surfer.
When you are learning, many doubts arise, maybe you feel embarrased to go alone into the water, and you do not feel like a real surfer.
So, when is the moment you become a surfer? LOL
We were saying, that maybe it is when you start practicing it more often, you make the surfing your sport, your hobby, until it becomes a passion.
It also has a lot to do when you start to get your own surf equipment.
The first thing I had was the leash (and I didn’t have a board! 😅) and also a rashguard to not hurt my belly and my bikini wouldn’t come off.
Then comes the board, and the moment you have to put fins, traction pad and wax.
And no idea how to put the fins and the different systems!
And what happens if we stick the traction pad in a wrong position?
There is also the thing of learning about the forecast, the tides, the swell, the feet, the seconds of period and the energy of the water.
What are all those numbers ???
At first, I was a bit obsessive about the surf forecast. But when you have the privilege of living near the ocean, you stop worrying about perfect conditions and you just go surfing every day, no matter what.
It is your escape, your connection with yourself and nature, your meditation, your relaxation after a day of work.
And if you caught good waves, great. And if not, the bath and the sunset were comforting.
Well, going back to when do you become a surfer …
I think that before you feel like a real surfer, your friends and people close to you start calling you a surfer and you just laugh. It happened to you?
A friend started calling me the dentist-surfer (I studied dentistry but I’m passionate about surfing).
And so little by little you begin to feel that you are a surfer!
What a beautiful passion, isn’t it?
You should feel proud to belong to this community, no matter how long you have been surfing, what type of board you use, what size waves you surf, surfing is an extreme sport, difficult, exhaustive, very mental and requires a lot of courage.
So put your head up and say you are a surfer!
Thank you for visiting the blog!
Feel free to leave a comment with your experience about become a surfer!
I send you a hug!