I’m looking at the sea, trying to read it and figure out the right timing to get on the board.
Another surfer appears and glides between the surfers, and it’s seems so natural to her. When she’s riding the wave, surfing looks as easy as walking down the road without bumping into anyone.
She didn’t even wet her hair and she already caught a wave!
I see this situation every day on the beach I go to; among the people who have welcomed me, are people who represent Ecuador in international tournaments.
And I already know that I should not compare myself to other surfers who have been doing it since they were children.
But that is precisely the beauty of surfing.
When I see the person who surfs and pushes his way between everyone, paddling to push his friend who left surfing for work and finally returned to surfing… he can catch the wave but still has a hard time and regardless of the difference in skill between them, they laugh and support each other.
There is the girl who approached me a few days ago and told me her frustration at not being able to balance studies and surfing, and that she now takes advantage of her school holidays to return to the beach.
The whole family that goes every morning to surf, the 6-year-old boy is learning from his parents.
We are surfers of all levels on the beach. Every morning, we are looking for that calm that the sea gives us and the feeling of freedom that the wave brings. It does not matter that I do not get to slide with that ease like the girl I described before… that frustration I’ve felt is part of the process of learning and the motivation to return to the water and push myself to continue improving.
And eventually, I will be able to stand on the board and be able to stand. And I know that when I can do it, I will not forget it… no matter how much time passes, that ability will be with me.
But I will continue to enjoy the struggles and admire the skill of the rest of the surfers in the sea. And above all, I will never stop learning.